I had only been in the Coast Guard about a year in 1981 and was stationed in Washington DC, far from the ocean and my playground.  But my boss, a fervent ship-driver, said I needed to get more experience afloat so he arranged for me to go to a Coast Guard cutter for some temporary duty in Fort Macon, North Carolina. Back then it was unusual to find other surfers in the service, but after a week I’d managed to connect with another surfer on the ship and we arranged to go surfing the first weekend we had liberty.

We drove to Atlantic Beach, North Carolina, a short distance from the ship.  We barely got out of the car to check the waves when a man ran up to me, grabbed me by the shoulders and started shaking me as he shouted.  He was so panicked I could hardly understand him.

“You’ve gotta hurry!” he shouted.  “She’s out there and she’s drowning!” He swung around pointing out to the waves.  “You’ve got a surfboard.  Help her!”

I couldn’t see anyone. But the surf was about 3-5 feet and you can easily lose sight of someone even in those waves. 

I ran fast into the water, my friend close behind, with no idea where the person was or if I’d even see her in time.  For a moment I wondered if I’d just been tricked or made a fool of, but kept going.  I threw myself on the board and paddled like I had in lifeguard relays before joining the Coast Guard, only I was on a shortboard not a paddleboard.  Full-on effort. Punching through waves. Never slowing down.

Once outside the waves I sat up and looked each direction.  About 50 yards away to my left I finally saw a dark head, barely above the surface as the waves washed over it.  I paddled fast and hard.  Whoever it was had little time left, if any.

I got up to the person, now I could tell she was a girl about 17 years old.  She was barely alive; completely exhausted and making ineffective motions with her arms as the waves flooded over her.  Her long brown hair was in her face and I could tell she was almost gone.

I grabbed her and said, “It’s OK. You’re going to be OK. I’ve got you.”

She didn’t look up.  I grabbed her by the shoulders and pulled her onto my surfboard.  It was then I noticed her bikini top was down around her waist. She was so nearly drowned that she didn’t notice or care.

I just pulled her completely onboard, did my best to pull her top back up, and got on behind her, paddling on our stomachs toward shore.  A couple of waves blasted us from behind, but we managed to make it inside the surfline.

As we got into waist deep water I saw an ambulance pulling onto the beach.  My buddy ran up and helped me get the girl up the last few yards to the beach.  A crush of people splashed up to us to help get the girl to the ambulance and into the care of the paramedics.

Once she was in the paramedics’ care I turned around and went surfing.  The waves were good.